Compliments of the season whisky lovers. I’m looking forward to sharing whisky thoughts, whisky adventures, general whisky musings, and maybe even a little bit of whisky itself (more on this later) with you in the coming year.
Please note that Words on Whisky can henceforth be found at www.wordsonwhisky.com. New year, new resolve, new address.
May the dram be with you in 2013.
Let’s make it a good one!
A few months ago I interviewed Taygan Govinden, the South African brand manager for Johnnie Walker.
First published in Prestige Magazine (November 2012 edition).
As it appeared.
Note: Apologies on behalf of Prestige Magazine for the spelling error in the sub-title of the printed version.
PL: Locally you’re the man at the wheel of the world’s biggest whisky brand. Tell us a bit about yourself.
TG: I’m Durban born and bred but I’ve also lived and worked in the UK and now I’m based in Cape Town. My background is in analytics, which I think has stood me in good stead for what I’m doing now. I’m a big cricket fan, and I enjoy sports in general. Basically I’d describe myself in a nutshell as a passionately South African guy with strong family values.
PL: Johnnie Walker sold 18 million cases in 2011, leaving its rivals trailing by quite some distance. The brand seems to be living its legend – keep walking indeed. What’s the secret to its phenomenal success?
TG: The brand has a pioneering spirit that drives us to innovate as we respond and adapt to our changing consumer preferences. Our heritage is based on the history and tradition of crafting big flavoured whiskies.
PL: The launch of Platinum Label forms part of some wider changes to the core portfolio. Can you elaborate on what’s been involved?
TG: We’ve introduced two new variants – Platinum Label and Gold Label Reserve. At the same time we’re gradually phasing out the old Gold and Green Labels. We are committed to ensuring that our full range of whiskies meet both existing consumer demand and further positions us to fully realise the evolving consumer opportunities of today and tomorrow. We believe that these changes will allow us to optimally realise these objectives.
PL: Whilst it’s still dwarfed by Blended whisky, Malt is on the rise. Last year Glenfiddich became the first single malt to sell a million cases. Green Label itself is the world’s fifth best-selling Malt whisky. So it might be seen as somewhat curious – in an era showing early signs of an increasing appreciation for Malt whisky – that this variant should be discontinued. Can you give us some insights into the rationale for this decision?
TG: We are evolving our range to meet existing consumer needs and build on our heritage of innovation of crafting flavours for contemporary tastes. The success we have seen with Gold Label Reserve in the Asian market gives us confidence that this variant offers a more compelling choice for our market.
PL: Will you be launching the Gold Label Reserve in South Africa? If so, can you give us a sneak peek?
TG: Yes, we’re launching it locally in November. Our consumers can look forward to a blend of premium Scotch whiskies delivering a perfectly mixable whisky with a very smooth taste.
PL: Platinum Label replaces Gold Label, which will now be phased out. What is the difference between the two?
TG: Platinum Label is an entirely new offering and not a reinterpretation of Gold Label. It is crafted from the very best 18 year-old Scotch Whiskies with a new, distinct flavour profile. While Gold Label is delicate and creamy, Platinum Label reflects a strong, sweet and elegant Speyside style with subtle smokiness, stewed fruit, malty cereal, smooth creamy vanilla, and tangerine sweetness.
PL: I recently passed through a duty-free store and I couldn’t help but notice that the price of Platinum Label is some 44% higher than Gold Label. They’re both 18YO and I would imagine that Gold Label contains high-quality, well-aged whiskies. What’s the basis for Platinum Label’s relatively more premium pricing?
TG: It should be priced at a 10% to 20% premium locally. Platinum Label is a completely different whisky to Gold Label and so they should not be compared. The age statement is the only link between these two whiskies.
PL: What will be Platinum Label’s recommended retail pricing in South Africa?
TG: R999.99
Posted in Whisky column
Tagged Glenfiddich, Johnnie Walker, Prestige Magazine, Whiskey, Whisky
No, I’m not expressing affection for my favourite drink. I’m reflecting on whether I can afford to part with a few limbs to enjoy it, because some whiskies really do cost an arm and a leg.
First published in Prestige Magazine (Best of the Best edition 2012).
As it appeared.
I’ve always found the free market to be a wonderful concept. Left to their own devices the complex forces that govern economics will invariably find equilibrium – a phenomenon which Adam Smith, one of the fathers of economic theory, articulated as the “invisible hand”. In my Darwinian view of the world this idea resonates with the natural order of things – it just seems right. But is it really? This order has manifested itself in the whisky sphere in recent times in the guise of booming demand interacting with sparse supply, and it has led to situation of spiralling prices…an outcome that is apparently without limits. By the time this column is published a bottle of whisky would have gone on sale on our shores for the heart-stopping price of R1.4 million.
This might potentially be a new high for South Africa (it needs to sell first), but the trend towards extravagantly priced whisky is well established. Globally the oldest and rarest whiskies from the most prestigious brands, Macallan, Glenfiddich, Dalmore and others, have been commanding millions (of Rands) for some time. Right here the Balvenie 50YO very recently sold for R230,000, joining a handful of bottles to clear the R100 000 mark on the local market. Even for whisky lovers like myself, for those of us who truly do appreciate the value of great whisky, these numbers are absolutely staggering, almost perverse. We could just shrug our shoulders, dismiss the matter and carry on with our lives; and at the end of the day that’s exactly what we’ll have to do – after all there’s enough good whisky priced on reasonable enough scales to cater for most people – but it’s worth giving it a little bit of thought and asking a few questions nonetheless.
First though a little bit about the whisky with the golden, nay diamond, price tag: the Diamond Jubilee Blended Scotch Whisky by John Walker & Sons. This is the same house that produces Johnnie Walker, the world’s best-selling brand of whisky, but somewhat confusingly, they’ve corralled some of their premium whiskies under a separate trademark. For all intents and purposes though this is a Johnnie Walker whisky. It was inspired by the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, an auspicious occasion no doubt for those interested in that type of thing, but also a bandwagon for limited edition products of every stripe. Regardless of whether the hallmark has been devalued by this stampede, the John Walker version stands out as the remarkable product that it is. It’s a blend, as the name suggests, not a single-malt, which I found surprising for a whisky at this price level. But perhaps I should question myself? Many whisky producers are at pains to put out the message to that blends can be every bit as good as single malts. This is probably self-serving, but I tend to agree, especially on an intrinsic basis. Anyhow, the product comes with various jubilee cute-isms – all components are vintage whiskies from the same year as the Queen’s coronation, the marrying casks are made from oak from the Queen’s estates, the diamond-shaped decanter stands on six legs (one for each decade of the Queen’s rule), and bottling was effected exactly sixty years to the day from that of the Queen’s accession – and a long collection of accoutrements of which I’ll just list a few highlights – a silver decanter collar set with a half-carat diamond (the decanter itself being de rigueur Baccarat), a pair of bespoke lead crystal tumblers hand engraved with wildlife scenes from the Queen’s estates, and a cabinet made from oak from the same harvest and source as the marrying casks, as well as special timbers drawn from around the Commonwealth. It goes beyond mere product – it is an objet d’art. Indeed this is probably the one advantage of the elevated cost of such whiskies: it creates an opportunity to do something particularly special and imaginative with the packaging. The Balvenie 50YO is notably accommodated in a cylindrical box made of 49 rings of seven Scottish grown timbers.
Impressed? I am. But the questions won’t go away. I asked this one of various whisky creators: Premium whisky has become so expensive that many of the oldest and rarest whiskies are completely out of reach for the average whisky lover. Some of the pricing seems completely overblown and markedly unrelated to the cost of creating the whisky. It could be argued that the industry is exploiting the current market dynamics to harvest excessive profits at the expense of its genuine, long-term, loyal consumers. How would you answer such a claim? The response that most struck a chord for me came from David Stewart of Balvenie who commented as follows: “I’m not involved in pricing but premium whisky has always been an expensive item, appreciated by few”. Fair or not depending on how one might choose to interpret the word “appreciated”.
I personally don’t begrudge the situation. The finer things in life, be they whisky or anything else, cost money, and, generally, are only available to a minority. This is the natural order. And it makes the moment of consumption – anticipated, hard-earned (in most cases), and long awaited – all the more special. The lingering regret for me is that many of these types of whiskies are bought for collections or as investments. There is a high probability that they might never be drunk. This means that many of the ostensibly finest whiskies in the world are destined to remain locked in glass in perpetuity. The John Walker Diamond Jubilee is sold with a 10cl taster bottle, but most of these won’t be opened either I would think because it’ll potentially reduce the value of the investment. On that rather sad note – may the dram (make it a special one for the festive season) be with you!
Perhaps not what you thought. It’s the first whisky-themed movie of all time…to the best of my knowledge. So for all whisky lovers it’s a must-see. In this regard I might be able to help. Read on.
Bunnahabhain, in association with WHISKYdotcoza, will be hosting an exclusive nationwide première of The Angel’s Share on Wednesday 28 November at Cavendish Square in Cape Town. Readers of this blog, WHISKYdotcoza Facebook friends and Twitter followers, and WHISKYdotcoza customers are being offered the opportunity to win five double tickets to the event.
The invitation.
If you want to be amongst the first people in the country to see this movie then please write to us at info@whisky.co.za and provide us with your name and contact details. Note that you’ll only be eligible if you “like” our Facebook page. The deadline for entries is Sunday 25 November at 22h00.
The James Sedgwick episode. You don’t have to fly to the auld country to visit a top-notch distillery. They’ve got the old and brown at Sedgwick’s in Wellington…and I’m not talking about sherry.
First published in Prestige Magazine (November 2012 edition).
As it appeared.
PS: The title in the printed version is not mine. I wouldn’t refer to whisky made in SA as Scotch, even jokingly.
The dominant feature at South Africa’s premier whisky distillery, the sight that first attracts the eye on arrival, is an iconic-looking pagoda. It may be vestigial, like most of its counterparts in Scotland, but it’s impressive and imposing nonetheless; like a steeple it proclaims the presence of holy ground, although of a different sort. This particular pagoda is modelled (like the stills too) after the one at Bowmore. In fact it soon becomes obvious that the Scottish influence is everywhere. Most of the whisky produced here at Sedgwick’s is clearly Scotch in style and flavour. Even the surroundings, the arresting, picture-perfect mountain vistas, suggest a fleeting resemblance to the Highlands. It’s an observation that stirs mixed feelings for me. I’m glad that I’ve made the trip, but somewhat embarrassed that it’s taken me so long.
In past years the products made here were criticised for being poor quality facsimiles of the genuine thing, inferior substitutes to be bought on a budget. Today these outdated perceptions can be consigned to a rubbish tip where they belong. The whisky is top-class. Of course, as if often the case with South Africans, it often takes foreign validation before we believe this of one of our own. Three Ships, the distillery’s flagship brand, was given one of the industry’s greatest accolades earlier this year when its 5 year-old was named the best blended whisky by the World Whisky Awards. Let me clarify in no uncertain terms exactly what this means: that’s the award for the best blended whisky in the world, including those from all the big guns: Scotland, Ireland, and even Japan, one of the most prolific countries of recent times in the accumulation of whisky prizes. Last year Suntory’s Hibiki, the Japanese whisky which Bill Murray so memorably turned into a household name (I use the term loosely – whisky households only), specifically the 21 year-old, took this selfsame award. So the magnitude of this achievement for a young whisky from a young, isolated, whisky producing country is massive indeed.
Strolling around the distillery it’s easy to see how this came to pass. The word that comes to mind, appropriately in more ways than one, is “shipshape”. It’s modern and clean, so much so that I could have eaten my lunch off the floor. The equipment is dazzling – I mentioned the pot stills but also worth noting is a gleaming automated column that looks like it could have flown me to the moon during its leisure time. I couldn’t put this to the test because it was hard at work distilling grain whisky. These buggers are very expensive, so clearly there’s been sufficient confidence in the product and its prospects to have laid down some serious investment. Most importantly however there’s a sense that these guys, the brains behind the operation, have high-level insight into the making of great whisky – which they’re systematically putting into practice; our host explained to us how malt whisky, and separately grain whisky, was best distilled during particular seasons of the year for optimal results. It’s an operation with an undeniable pedigree.
Notwithstanding the accents, the column stills (there are two in fact – the other’s an older, manual model) and the good weather, there isn’t much difference between Sedgwick’s and the better Scotch malt distilleries. And it’s no accident. The source of the Bowmore connection is Master Distiller Andy Watts, who trained at that eminent Islay facility, and subsequently implemented the fruits of his early experience locally, clearly to great effect. This is all well and good – who better to learn from than the best – but I was also hoping, maybe for no other reason than to stay my own discomfort, for some local flavour. It had taken the award for me to pay any significant attention to the distillery and its whiskies, to my discredit as a South Africa-based whisky lover, and now it seemed important to me that they should be something more than a Scottish (or other) clone, however good.
This is obviously not a novel idea. Sedgwick’s however is owned by Distell, a brandy-focused behemoth, for whom whisky is still a bit-part player. There are twelve year-old casks lying around in their maturation warehouse, ready, mature, delicious, waiting for the call. That’s not to say that nothing has happened. Things have definitely happened – Bain’s Cape Mountain whisky, whilst not intrinsically unique (I find it somewhat bourbon-ish), makes for an interesting proposition in that it is distilled entirely from local maize – and are set to continue happening – apparently there are experiments in progress to develop whiskies with a Pinotage cask finish.
Is this enough though? I can’t help but think of a parallel. During the darkest days of malt whisky, when blends had completely taken over, it was the independent bottlers who kept the tradition of the single malt alive. Sedgwick’s juice is kept strictly in-house by company policy, but imagine the possibilities if this were to be relaxed. Something radical perhaps, a bold new genre – a muscadel cask finish or maturation in indigenous wood. Who knows what may happen yet. May the dram be with you!
Posted in Whisky column
Tagged Bain's Cape Mountain Whisky, James Sedgwick Distillery, Three Ships, Whiskey, Whisky
If you thought that it was all about the motion of the…uh…potion, think again. Size does matter.
First published in Prestige Magazine (October 2012 edition).
As it appeared.
Every year the authoritative Drinks International publishes a supplement called The Millionaires’ Club. To the pundit this is something of a bible – and accordingly I read it religiously. It’s a snapshot of an intensely gladiatorial arena at the end of the annual “games”, documenting the performance – measured in millions of 9l cases – of the world’s big-time spirits brands. In order to crack the nod a brand must post minimum annual sales of that magical thousand thousand, hence the name.
You might ask yourselves why this should matter to you. Those of us who consider ourselves to be fierce individualists would probably insist that we make choices to which we are innately suited, rather than paying any attention to what the unwashed masses are consuming. Or in other words – when it comes to liquor – we should drink what we like rather than worry about what others are drinking. It’s a simple fact of life however that popular preference has significant sway on our own. We are susceptible to a large extent, like it or not, to the influence of the world around us. There is some sense after all, unconscious or otherwise, in recognising the value of something that has been evaluated and accepted en masse. It is the ultimate endorsement, or so I console myself when falling prey. Furthermore there’s also an undeniable pull to the beholding of scale: elephants, monster trucks, million case vodkas, and much other such oversized phenomena all offer a certain voyeuristic fascination, especially when they’re pitted one against the other. Millionaires then is well worth a gander.
So, what’s big and getting bigger? What’s out there – of significance – about which we might not know? Do we need to re-evaluate our repertoires? I was seeking out and enjoying Grey Goose a good few years ahead of most fellow South Africans, thanks to Millionaires. Do you know that Ballantine’s Scotch whisky – which is completely under our local radar – is the world’s third best-selling whisky? And that’s including whiskeys! What other tricks out there might we be missing? There’s only one thing for it – here are the highlights of 2011.
A quick note first though: Millionaires categorises a brand as either global, regional or local, depending on its prevalence. Global brands are those with wide reach and appeal. Local brands are limited to just a few markets, or in many cases just a single market. These are typically value-for-money brands whose success can largely be attributed to pricing, or culturally-specific tastes. Regional brands fall somewhere in the middle. I think we have enough Romanoff vodkas and Wellington brandies all of our own so I’ll be focusing on global brands, with the odd passing glance at a few regional brands and at one lone local brand.
All figures quoted represent millions of cases.
Cognac
You should know: Remy Martin declined to participate and did not submit any figures for 2011 – its volume for 2010 was 1.65. Courvoisier, the smallest of the four dominant cognacs was also the fastest growing last year – adding to the previous year at a rate of 11,7%. The Jarnac producer built this growth with the launch of a slew of age variants as well as other line extensions, notably C by Courvoisier – a bold, some are saying revolutionary, double-matured cognac with a “full-bodied, intense flavour profile”. It is targeted it seems at the gangsta rapper brigade…and associated wannabes. Word up.
Vodka
You should know: Smirnoff continues to consolidate its solid position – it has for some years now been the world’s largest global brand. Meanwhile Ciroc, the ultra-premium grape-based vodka, has crested a million cases and was last seen passing the 1.5 mark, climbing a rate of 66.7% thanks to the efforts of megastar rapper and brand ambassador Sean “P.Diddy” Combs. Ciroc may technically be classified as a local brand (very unusual – given its premiumness), because its volume is almost exclusively concentrated in the US, but on evidence of this performance it won’t be for very much longer. Around the world people are also increasingly calling for Ketel One and Poliakov, two premium vodkas that have been growing steadily during the past five years.
Rum
You should know: Rum continues to be dominated by the mix-it, party brands. Only Appleton, with its credible portfolio of aged rums, is giving any hint of what might be to come.
Whisky
You should know:
William Lawson’s posted incredible growth of 35,5%. Is this the mass discovery of a formerly underappreciated brand? There are suggestions that a pre-duty stocking in the massive French whisky market may be responsible, but time will tell. If this is the case it’ll be corrected in next year’s figures, but it might be worth finding a bottle in the interim to see if there’s any merit to the fuss.
The introduction of flavoured “bourbons” such as Red Stag has been a big hit and largely accounts for the strong movement from Jim Beam and Wild Turkey in particular.
Jameson continues its long term surge, growing at an impressive 19,2% off an already large base. Where though are the other Irish whiskeys?
The most monumental news however is the entry of the first single malt into the club (Glenfiddich of course). Malt still plays a distant second fiddle to blends, but this signals a bit of a shift – in perceptions if not serious volumes yet. Hopefully the supply can keep up.
Gin
You should know: Premium brands rose, whilst standard brands stayed static or sank. The G and T set are packing their bags and setting sail for Bombay, with sales of the blue bottle leading the charge for the second year running at 7,9% up.
Posted in Spirits column
Tagged Distilled spirits, Glenfiddich, Prestige Magazine, Rum, Whiskey, Whisky
Building a better mousetrap in an industry where mice cannot be trapped
First published in Prestige Magazine (October 2012 edition)
As it appeared.
Someone recently told me that Blackberry is on its way out, eaten up by Apple and Samsung, as good as gone, kaput. I had no idea. It doesn’t seem like too long ago that it was the next best thing. Admittedly I’m not the best barometer when it comes to mobile technology. I’m currently using my wife’s hand-me-down and I always seem to be one upgrade behind everyone else. My finger is so far from its pulse that I wouldn’t know what was happening in this market until two years later. Regardless it can’t be disputed that change is taking place at a breakneck pace – driven by rapid innovation. Whisky, with which I’m decidedly more familiar, offers a stark contrast by comparison. It’s an industry in which true innovation is rare – its product has been made in largely the same way for centuries. Here it is heritage more than anything else which is the key to success: the common thread amongst the world’s big whiskies is that they’ve all been around for a while.
Unlike the cellular phone whisky is old and deeply traditional. Change is resisted – in many cases it is institutionally resisted. The running gun battles – hugely entertaining by the way – between the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), the guardians of industry, and John Glaser, the most maverick whisky maker in living memory, have become almost legendary. His company, Compass Box, named Innovator of the Year on four separate occasions by Whisky Magazine, has continually attempted to push the boundaries. Most recently he and his team cocked a snook at the SWA with the release of their “Last Vatted Malt” – a dig at the latest regulations. In reality though, as inventive as these guys might be within whisky’s narrow confines, a few oak staves here and few hazy blends there would hardly qualify as innovations amongst the Steve Jobs of this world (may he rest in peace). Compass Box has prospered but I sometimes think that it’s the resultant publicity rather than the actual merits of its inventiveness that is more responsible – and this is said without casting any aspersions on the quality of the whisky, which is good, very good.
Whisky, during its long history, has of course seen a few genuinely transformative developments. The column still paved the way for more affordable supply in greater volumes. Blends, which today dominate the market, made whisky more acceptable and palatable to a broader spectrum of people. More recently, the inception of “finishing”, also known as double maturation or even extra maturation, added a new diversity of flavour to the whisky repertoire by introducing exotic casks (port, rum, cognac and others) into the ageing process. But these have been few and far between. Today the industry is too tightly regulated to permit much more than a few Compass Box-type peculiarities.
I often wonder whether this status-quo is in our best interests as whisky lovers. Are we not perhaps missing out? Would it not serve the greater good to loosen the reins and see what happens? I’m a renegade at heart so I’m always thrilled to see guys like Glaser tangling with the Establishment and giving the what-for. The limits should to be tested, and the agendas of entrenched interests need to be kept in check. But equally there must to be limits, otherwise this path may take us to places where we might not want to go. Consider this eventuality: would the addition of external flavours (blasphemy!) not make for a better, or at least a worthwhile, whisky? This is a realistic consequence of uncontrolled innovation. The answer? Perhaps – but would such a concoction still be whisky, the drink we’ve come to know and love? Whisky’s identity, and indeed its value, comes from its connection to the past and from its mystery, rather than from any kind of mechanical functionality with which to be played and manipulated. It is only whisky because five hundred years of documented history (and several hundred more lost in the mists of time) have told us that that’s how it should be made.
I attended a tasting not long ago which reinforced to me why I’m passionate about whisky rather than anything else, cellular phones included. During the function I tasted two whiskies aged in similar Oloroso sherry casks (probably sourced from the same bodega): the first younger (a 1992 vintage), the second significantly older (a mystery whisky). Strangely, inexplicably, the 1992 was considerably darker and its sherry flavours more pronounced. Furthermore the mystery whisky exhibited citrus notes – highly unusual in sherry casks. This is the type of phenomenon – in this case the visceral, unpredictable organicity of the casks – that makes whisky so special and so enigmatic. There may not be the potential to release a new app every few days, but whisky makers can and do build better mousetraps just by focusing on the fundamentals and leaving the rest to a time-honoured, intangible “magic”. In its different casks, in the shape of an individual still, and in its varying terroir whisky has the power to surprise and to astound. May the dram be with you!
Posted in Whisky column
Tagged Compass Box, John Glaser, Scotch Whisky Association, Whiskey, Whisky
Get yourself one of those dinky bottles, take a sip, sit back and read my article in the October edition of British Airways’ High Life magazine.
As it appeared – p1.
As it appeared – p2.
May the draaam be with you!
Posted in Whisky column
Tagged Ardbeg, Jameson, Johnnie Walker, Macallan, Michel Couvreur, Whiskey, Whisky, Whisky Live Festival
The excitement of Whisky Live is upon us again, and in spirit appropriate of the whisky season my friends (and yours) at Glenfiddich have put together a special surprise for all you whisky-loving readers of Words on Whisky. Here it goes.
Win a bottle of Glenfiddich 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, the world’s leading single malt Scotch Whisky, in the lead up to the FNB Whisky Live Festival.
Whether you’re a first-time taster, already a passionate connoisseur, or enthusiastic to learn, see, and taste more, visit the Glenfiddich gold stand at the FNB Whisky Live Festival to nose and taste a dram of the core range of Glenfiddich 12, 15 and 18 Year Old under the expert guidance of the Glenfiddich Brand Ambassador team.
Mmm….
Send your name and contact details to info@whisky.co.za to stand a chance to win a bottle of Glenfiddich 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky valued at R320.00.
The FNB Whisky Live Festival takes place at the Cape Town Convention Centre from 3 – 5 October and is open daily from 18:00 – 22:00. Tickets are available online at www.whiskylivefestival.co.za. See you there and may the dram be with you!
PS – Please note that the competition is only open to residents of South Africa, or to those prepared to travel here to come and collect their prize :). Entries must be received by midnight 5 October.
The new serving standard
First published in Prestige Magazine (September 2012 Edition).
As it appeared – page 1
As it appeared – page 2
Premium. It’s the watchword of our times. The online Oxford defines it as: “relating to or denoting a commodity of superior quality and therefore a higher price”. I’ve simplified it to: “relatively extra” – specifications, quality, prestige…any or all of that good stuff. Everybody wants premium. And why not? Life is too short to settle for less.
Whisky is no exception; in fact it’s the epitome of this phenomenon. In the whisky world expensive, lavishly-packaged variants are being introduced on a weekly basis. Older, better, more! It’s exciting but also a little bit intimidating, because the bar (yes, I like my puns) is being set progressively higher. For instance, it no longer seems enough, in a well-to-do home, to serve visitors the regular fare – a 12YO blended Scotch, the first step to premium, is the new minimum standard.
To properly appreciate this new game, and to make the most of it, one needs become familiar with the players. This may be particularly relevant right now as we come out of winter hibernation, look to refill our liquor cabinets, and start entertaining afresh. In the not-so-distant South African past, although there were others lurking about, the choice invariably came down to a straight contest between Johnnie Walker Black Label and Chivas Regal 12YO. One either preferred the huskiness of the former or the honeyed flavour of the latter (or, in many cases I’m sure, one just bought premium for premium’s sake). No longer. Whilst these two stalwarts still dominate the market, the repertoire of easily accessible options has expanded quite delightfully.
I recently sought out a few of Cape Town’s whisky luminaries and prompted them to gather at the Bascule, the city’s whisky HQ, to review the local pool of 12YO blended Scotch. In the midst of some typical whisky-fuelled R&R (repartee and revelry) we somehow managed to string together a few coherent observations, précised below for your reading pleasure. Enjoy, and may the dram be with you!
Johnnie Walker Black Label
Johnnie Walker is the world’s best-selling whisky. Diageo, its owner, is much maligned in the whisky world, but one thing is clear enough: it takes nothing less than high-quality, highly consistent whisky to attain and maintain such lofty heights. I found the nose somewhat brash, but if subtlety’s not the result then it’s not the objective either. Rather, this is a bold and tasty mainstream whisky that hits each and every place on the Scotch trifecta – malt, peat, and sherry – and hits it hard. And if you’re a young turk with a big swinging dick looking to make your mark in the world then there’s still no better way to announce your intent than by walking into a bar and calling for a Johnnie Black, yeah baby!
Chivas Regal
If Johnnie Walker is Scotch then Chivas is Speyside…in all of its debonair elegance. In very broad terms the region has become known for the fruit and honey flavours which happen to be prominent in Chivas Regal. The whisky’s official tasting notes also claim a slight smokiness, but this was beyond my ability to identify. Perhaps it comes from char as opposed to peat. Regardless, it’s not important. Chivas is not about smoke, or anything so robust. It is understated refinement personified. Interestingly one of our party noted that this is not a distinctively whiskied whisky – apparance of its cereal origins is restrained, and dominated by sherry notes. Indeed to a novice it might be difficult to distinguish from a similarly aged cognac or rum. I’d perhaps venture to suggest that this is a whisky for all seasons.
Grant’s 12YO
This new kid on the block comes from a pedigreed background. It’s a blend in which we can assume the famous Glenfiddich and Balvenie malts, emanating from the same hallowed stable, to be at the forefront. Sadly for this fine whisky my attention was diverted by a claim which seems rather forced: “Grant’s 12 Year Old is the only blended Scotch whisky to ‘marry’ the finest 12 Year Old grain and single malt whiskies for six months after blending in bourbon casks”. Technically this may be true, but it’s not quite as impressive as it sounds. Dewar’s (and W&M) has a long tradition of marrying whisky, albeit in sherry casks, and one of the variants of the local Three Ships, albeit not a Scotch, is married in bourbon casks. The good news – for peat freaks in particular – is that Grant’s is the smokiest whisky in this category. Phenol-menal! Kudos too on the best packaging amongst the lot.
Ballantine’s 12YO
The regular Ballantine’s is my favourite blended Scotch in its price category. It reminds me of my time in Rome when I spent many an evening pondering the spectacular sights, glass in hand. And big brother does not disappoint. A flavoursome and interesting all-rounder – my personal runner-up.
J&B Jet
Jet’s mild flavours won’t start a party in your mouth; rather this is a whisky that’s ideal for newer initiates, and for occasions when fuller flavours might be distracting. Fresh but not vivid – perfect as an aperitif on a spring evening.
Dewar’s 12YO
I’ve kept the best for last – and that’s not just my opinion. Each of the heavyweights at our gathering concurred, with no hesitation whatsoever. This whisky is magnificently integrated – it displays superb balance not only amongst it complex flavours, but also between nose, palate and finish – and is completed by a smooth, silky mouth-feel. Hugely underrated.
Big thanks to Hector McBeth, Marsh Middleton and Bernard Gutman.
Posted in Whisky column
Tagged Ballantine's, Chivas Regal, Dewar's, J&B, Johnnie Walker, Whiskey, Whisky, William Grant's
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